Sharpening Bandsaw Blades via Table Saw and Cross Cut Sled

I usually do not miss around with sharpening my own blades, as it is better to have them sharpened with the proper equipment. When in a bind, I have used the below stated method with good results. Please see the pics to get an idea, of what I am trying to convey in this method. I use one of my older worn large table saw cross cut sleds, in conjunction with a simple jig (backer board) to do so. The bands have to be flipped inside out to do so in my case, as my table saw is a right tilt model. (most are) I use a planned and straight edged board that is the width of my sled or slightly wider. I lay the blade and board, teeth pointing down onto a flat surface, and trace with a pen or pencil the outline of the gullet/tooth face onto the oak (or other) backer board. I then center punch a mark, and drill a small hole, where by the outer diameter of a finishing nail, when hammered into hole, will line up with the bands gullet edge/socket. (creates a stop) I install a 10" metal cutting disk on the saw, and adjust it for height and angle of the tooth face and gullet depth. With the band loop laid inside the sled, and laying flush, move the sled up to the adjusted cut off blade, and adjust the jig with the tooth face/gullet set firmly against the nail stop, and move the jig left or right till the face of a tooth just BARELY, AND I DO MEAN BARELY kisses the abrasive wheel/cut off disk. Then clamp backer board to sled fence. Keep in mind you want the tooth to touch the cut off disk the least amount you can get away with, and still end up with sharp edges on the teeth. Once you have this adjusted proper, you turn on saw, and push the sled at a moderate, but constant speed into the cut off disk/abrasive disk. To slow, you burn the teeth, to fast, you will deflict the blade. You will pick up a feel for proper timing as you progress go along. After you have passed a tooth through the cut, lift the blade up with your finger tips, and prepare for next tooth. DO NOT run the tooth past the disk on the pull back stroke. With your finger tips pull the band across for setting up the next tooth, pushing the next gullet up tight and hold for next pass with finger tips firmly. Do Not try moving the blade in the direction of cut, but do the opposite, were you can glide the band across easily for the next set. You will have to center the loop several times as you go, as you do not want the band/blade hanging over to one side, keep the band centered in the sled. With a little practice you should be able to sharpen a complete band in 20 to 30 minutes with casual effort.(I average 20 min. for 155" band, 3/4" tooth spacing, 223 teeth per band if my memory is right) Keep in mind you want the band teeth to be laying flush onto the cross cut sled at all times, and if your sled has any play, always force the play into the blade with each pass so the grinds across tooth faces are consistant. Remember to flip the blade back inside out after completing the sharping for use on the sawmill. If you have taken great care in your adjustments, you should get several sharpenings out of a band, without even having to set them. Also try to find a cut off disk that does not have the fiberglass showing on the outside faces of the disk. I use Forney cut off disks as they are easily obtainable here, and do not have the fiberglass showing on the disk faces.